Trattoria Diane becomes Bistro Diane, in Roslyn

It all comes full circle for Roslyn’s longtime culinary couple Diane and John Durkin, owners of Diane’s Bakery Cafe and next door’s eponymous Italian trattoria, Diane’s, at 21 Bryant Ave. Diane’s shuttered in August for a refresh, and this month sees the awaited reopening of the restaurant, an entirely new one, at that. Welcome, Bistro Diane.

Some history: When the 21 Bryant building opened in 1989, it was as a French restaurant called Diane’s. The Durkins, who already owned the bakery next door, took it over in 1992. A few years later, having spent some time in Italy, the pair decided they wanted to cook Italian food rather than French. So in 2000, Diane’s changed course, becoming the local standby for pastas like their decadent spaghetti carbonara and cacio e pepe, rich Tuscan pot roasts and crispy fritto mistos, jumping between Tuscan and Roman fare with continued success. Now, more than 30 years later, the Durkins are again proving that change is good, returning their beloved restaurant to its original French roots with its reinvention into a buzzy raw bar and bistro.

The new Diane's menu nods to French standards but gives them a modern spin. Take the coquille St. Jacques, an oversized scallop served over Jimmy Nardello peppers and creamy sorrel rather than a classic gratiné ($16). There’s leeks with hazelnuts in a beet vinaigrette ($18), escargot (from the Peconic, $23), and chanterelle mushroom puffs ($32). Raw bar options include Oyster Pond oysters ($48/dozen), Long Island clams ($36/dozen), Montauk shrimp cocktail, and petite and grands platters encompassing all, including lobster (MP) starting at $110. Requisite mains include a roasted half chicken ($36), filet au poivre ($8 ounces, $72), Dover sole ($75), mussels doused in Pernod with fries ($36), and rabbit confit ($30). Do not skip dessert. Profiteroles, check. Tarte tatin, check.

And about those big changes, John Durkin explained: "Over the last couple of years, we've been thinking about the epilogue of our career at Diane’s. We've been working at the bakery and restaurant for 45 years and I thought it would be great to reinvent the restaurant one more time." Durkin, who also happens to be Roslyn’s mayor, described the new aesthetic as "our own Renaissance. Diane’s would have a new name, new menu, new look and a new vibe. We want to enter this new chapter in our lives surrounded by art we love to look at, music we love to listen to, food we love to eat and folks we love to be with." To that end, the room has changed significantly. The windowed space has been brightened and whitened on the main dining level, while the bar in back features a dark, moodier wallpaper that sets the stage for the light jazz playing in the din. All artwork in the new space is by local artist Mark Milroy. The upstairs private dining room remains.

Food will be sourced from Rottkamp Farm in Brookville, fisherman on the East End and upstate farms. They are also importing butter and specialty items from France. The excellent bread is from Bicyclette Bakery in Brooklyn and will soon make its debut in the bakery. And though much is changing at 21 Bryant Ave., "One thing that will not change is our great staff," Durkin said of his longtime employees. Ryan Matuska is chef de cuisine.

Said Durkin, "Diane and I will be here as well overseeing the kitchens, working on food and desserts and doing what we have been for our professional lives, creating and growing a neighborhood place that will always welcome both old friends and new."

Bistro Diane, 21 Bryant Ave. Roslyn, 516-621-2591; trattoriadiane.com; Open Tuesday to Thursday 5 to 9:30 p.m., Friday from 5 to 10 p.m., Saturday 5 to 10:30 p.m. and Sunday 4:30 to 8 p.m.

By Marie Elena Martinez

marieelena.martinez@newsday.com

A global freelancer who has checked her suitcase to raise her young daughter on her native Long Island, Marie Elena will always make time for good mezcal, even better tacos and killer conversation. Preferably, in a corner bar seat. She can be found on Instagram at @mariesworldeats.