Lotus Indian Fusion reopens in Hicksville 3 years after fire

Chilli chicken, crimson garlic chicken, black flame chicken and drums of heaven ... If you can keep all these chicken dishes straight, you must be a lover of Indo-Chinese cuisine. The Long Island scene is better than ever now that a popular Hicksville restaurant has reopened.

Lotus Indian Fusion adds to a growing niche of Indo-Chinese restaurants, such as HAKA in Hicksville and the lavish mini-chain Jade Eatery & Lounge. Lotus opened in 2016 but closed in 2022 after discarded Fourth of July fireworks caused a dumpster fire that burned part of the restaurant.

Owner Shivan Sondhi said his family intended to reopen Lotus Indian Fusion in the same location, but there were too many obstacles. Sondhi instead opened three Häagen-Dazs franchises — in Huntington Station, Brooklyn, and, more recently, in the new Soni Centre in Hicksville — while considering the future of Lotus.

"But we got lucky. We were able to find a location on the same street" as the original Lotus," he said. "When I stand outside I can see my old location." 

Working with his mother, Rosy, and brother Sunny, Sondhi reopened Lotus in the historic space that was Peppercorns for more than 40 years. The building was originally a firehouse, he said, and they kept the beautiful tin ceilings above the bar. The dining room  has old-timey wood paneling and a bit of a "Cheers" vibe. 

Lotus' menu is as vast as a diner's, with a substantial vegetarian section as well as North Indian specialties from his hometown of New Delhi. There's charcoal-kissed lamb, Szechuan flame lamb and lamb ginger. Even the bread varieties are surprising. A plain naan bread goes by the name Naan Stop Nonsense. The paratha bread is called Crumbs of Chaos, and then there's Roti Toh Dekho, with an intriguing description: "Not any roti. She glows." ($3.95) 

The kitchen is also willing to prepare off-menu dishes, like Apollo fish. The stir-fry ($19.95) from the Indian city of Hyderabad has a crave-worthy sauce that's a little bit Indian, a little bit spicy Chinese.

Lotus Indian Fusion, 25 E. Marie St., Hicksville, 516-822-5600, lotusindianfusion.com. Open noon to 11 p.m. Wednesday through Monday.