Okaru opens Koyu, a new, private omakase experience in Roslyn

Former BondSt. chef Marc Spitzer and real estate investor Noam Shemel launched Northern & Main Hospitality in 2025 with Roslyn’s Okaru, one of Newsday FeedMe's Top 50 Restaurants. Next month, the two are expanding their Long Island footprint. Their second space, Koyu, a 12-seat subterranean sushi counter beneath Okaru, opens to the public on Nov. 5. Reservations open on Oct. 22.

Koyu, which loosely translates to "the bonds that form around a single counter," is accessed past the Okaru bar. A small sign points downward to the entry, a dramatic arched stairway that the pair re-tunneled, creating a separate entrance. Beyond a sexy, luxurious room with every custom detail imaginable — meticulously adjusted lighting, lime wash ceilings, oak flooring, black coiled steel sinks, raw-edge marble, tambour wood paneling — nothing is spared. Though so simple and sleek on first glance, the stunning space is layered in a Japanese-Scandinavian aesthetic that honors the former’s culinary treasures. It shares the same vibe as Okaru, but it feels much more intimate, delicate even.

This second spot was always in the plan, according to Spitzer. "As great as a level as we can do it [omakase] upstairs [Okaru], it’s just too busy to be piece by piece. There's a difference between it coming out of his hand and you eating it four seconds after being made, than it being a minute," he explained about relaunching omakase in its own space, one that began as one of Okaru’s large dry-storage closets within the historic 1890 building's restaurant blueprint in 2025.

Each night’s menu is displayed in two inlaid wooden neta boxes — separated by shellfish and fin fish to account for allergies and dietary needs — at one end of a custom-outfitted wood, marble and stone counter. Around it, 12 diners will gather nightly to sip from vintage Japanese ceramic sake glasses from Spitzer’s own collection for pairings exclusive to Koyu. On the far end of the room, a vintage Japanese fireman's jacket is displayed as artwork (yes, Spitzer tried it on and "it fits"); there are imported Japanese ceramic plates, custom chopstick holders. A small corner bar will offer a seven-course sake and wine pairing ($165) curated by Robert Penafiel. "It’s almost a disservice if you don't get it. It’s completely different and unique to the sake and drink offerings upstairs," Spitzer said. Progressing from Champagne to Burgundy wine and Japanese sake, wines by the glass and a full bar are also available.

Central to the experience is Koyu's shari, or vinegared rice, a signature house blend of three vinegars developed by Spitzer and Bryan Yee, Koyu’s executive sushi chef. Yee flies in "99%" of his fish from Japan, and since he and Spitzer worked together for over 15 years at BondSt., “there will be signatures and bites that we’ve been working on for years together." Take the A5 Wagyu cannoli in a crisp nori shell filled with beef and caviar or the uni snow made from liquid nitrogen. The menu will change nightly, featuring only the seasonal best, complemented by locally sourced ingredients. The 18 courses will progress from otsumami plates like amadai soba risotto or Japanese tilefish cooked skin-on to traditional edomae-style nigiri, including kinmedai, or goldeneye snapper, and kasugodai, or lean, naturally sweet baby snapper. A rotating handroll course is followed by a seasonal wanmono (a traditional warm bowl course) like chawanmushi, featuring a silky Jidori egg custard with king crab, shimeji mushrooms and ginkgo. One of two desserts will be traditional, say a musk melon, while the other will lean modern, perhaps an aerated kabocha cheesecake.

Booked separately from Okaru, the $215 (plus tax and gratuity), 18-plus course omakase experience will have two seatings, at 5:30 and 8:30 p.m. The room seats 12 on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. On other nights, it’s available as a private dining space and private lounge for up to 25 guests.

Koyu (beneath Okaru), 1401 Old Northern Blvd., Roslyn, 516-688-0220; koyu-omakase.com; Open Thursday through Saturday; Seatings at 5:30 and 8:30 p.m.

By Marie Elena Martinez

marieelena.martinez@newsday.com

A global freelancer who has checked her suitcase to raise her young daughter on her native Long Island, Marie Elena will always make time for good mezcal, even better tacos and killer conversation. Preferably, in a corner bar seat. She can be found on Instagram at @mariesworldeats.