Patrizia's Italian restaurant opens in Westbury

"The same, but different" is how Tony Luisi described Patrizia’s in Westbury, which opened on Friday  in the old AG Steakhouse just south of Samanea mall. It’s the fifth Long Island link in the metro area chain and, with a capacity of more than 300 seats, unquestionably the biggest.

The sister restaurants in Hicksville, Massapequa and Hauppauge all share a big, crowd-pleasing, family-style Italian American menu and a boisterous, singalong vibe. (The Patrizia’s Marquee that opened last year in Commack is a bit more subdued and upscale.) Despite its size, the Westbury layout actually feels more intimate since it is divided into four spaces that, aside from a main dining room that accommodates 120, can provide a more intimate experience — or can be cordoned off for private events.

"People see us as this wild, loud, napkin-waving place," Luisi said. "But we want them to come here and have a different experience."

He and his partner at Westbury, Sal Mangiacapre, are both Patrizia’s veterans. With one weekend under their belts, they are still sorting out the vibe. A DJ spinning heart-pounding, foot-stomping music is probably out, but perhaps some energetic soft rock? Possibly live? Maybe a jazz night? Jazz night in the bar-lounge, soft rock in the side room?

The menu is about 30% smaller than at the other locations. You can still order the belly-busting family-style meal (pizza, salad, four starters, pasta, entree and dessert with unlimited wine and beer for $75, $65 with unlimited soft drinks) or favorites such as Sunday meatballs ($17), Sicilian rice balls ($16) or Parm / Francese / Marsala (chicken for $29, veal for $32).

Mangiacapre said, "When it came to the food, we didn’t want to veer too far off, but wanted to create a new identity" and so he and executive chef Eddie Baneges  came up with a number of dishes exclusive to Westbury. In addition to Patrizia’s signature fioretti money bags (homemade "purses" in a mushroom-prosciutto cream sauce, $28), the kitchen is making truffle-fig money bags that can be ordered as a big platter ($31) or tossed tableside with a creamy cheese sauce in a hollowed-out wheel of Parmigiano-Reggiano ($57, can "start" a table of four). Or, dive into the seafood extravaganza called St. Joseph’s Pescatore: clams, mussels, shrimp, octopus on a bed of linguine topped with toasted anchovy breadcrumbs ($37).

In addition to three regular steaks, there are double-cut lamb chops in a cherry-port reduction ($49) and every night there’s a special, market-priced butcher’s cut (tomahawk, filet mignon, etc.) and a catch of the day (branzino, red snapper, swordfish). Plus nine pizzas made in the open kitchen that overlooks the main dining room.

The sprawling, low-slung eatery, an island in a vast parking lot, got its start as Cozymel’s Mexican Grill in 1990s. Arising from adjacent lots are chain eateries Spring Shabu Shabu, The Cheesecake Factory, Chili’s Grill & Bar, Benihana and Applebee’s, as well as local operations such as City Cellar, Baci and The Farm Italy. To Tony Luisi, this competition spelled L.U.N.C.H. "We serve lunch everywhere," he said, "but here we wanted to offer something really special." For $26, midday diners can start with a soup or salad, then a pasta or Parm and dessert. Other lunch-only options include Roman artichokes ($15), eight panini and the Patrizia’s burger (topped with Fontina, fried prosciutto and roasted garlic aioli and accompanied by homemade fries and a fountain soda, $25).

Because it’s a freestanding building, Patrizia’s Westbury has a few outdoor dining areas and, along the east side of the building, a drive-up takeout window the owners installed so the bar doesn’t get clogged with Uber Eats drivers.

Long Island's first Patrizia’s opened in 2016 in Hicksville. The brand was founded in the Bronx in 1991 by Naples-born brothers Gennaro and Giacomo Alaio. They are involved in the five Long Island locations as well as one in Manhattan, seven in the outer boroughs, two in New Jersey, two in Florida and one in Aruba.

Patrizia’s, 1177 Corporate Dr., Westbury, 516-758-1000, patriziaswestbury.com. Open Monday to Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m., Saturday 11 p.m. to 11 p.m., Sunday noon to 9 p.m.