Tucker's Taproom & Smokehouse BBQ shines in Mattituck

Add another stop to your Long Island barbecue itinerary: Tucker’s Taproom & Smokehouse is putting Mattituck on the map. Or, rather, back on the map. It’s got terrific smoked meats that are equaled in quality by the sides and the drinks (18 beers on tap, premium spirits, craft cocktails), all of which can be enjoyed at the bar, in the dining room or outside on the lawn or patio.

You’ll be forgiven if you’ve lost track of what’s been going on at the rambling structure at the intersection of North Road and Old Sound Avenue in Mattituck. Formerly Porto Bello, it was long vacant until North Fork Roadhouse opened in 2020 and closed less than two years later. In 2022, the spot opened as Branch Brewing Company and, within a few months, pitmaster Larry Mondello moved his barbecue operation, Meat’s Meat — along with a custom-built 16-foot smoker — there. When the original owners of Branch Brewing left, general manager Chris Hujber took the reins. And then Mondello left.

Last summer, Hujber renamed the place Tucker’s and, in September, he welcomed aboard chef Zachary Cantner. A few months in and this new configuration most certainly has legs.

Cantner has taken to the smoker like a fish to water. Even a lone diner can get a good sense of his mastery with the five-meat plate ($36 for a quarter pound of each, $66 for a half pound, $124 for a pound). Mine featured brisket (smoky and jiggly), pulled pork (not pulled into a cat food but in recognizable hunks), ribs (tender but requiring teeth), pastrami (juicy with some spice) and both Italian sausage and kielbasa (rendered nearly indistinguishable by the smoke). All of these, plus the pulled chicken, also wind up in sandwiches ($20 to $24).

The chef wisely kept Mondello’s brisket burgers ($20 to $22), which are smoked until they are cooked through, then, when ordered, briefly flame-grilled: They don’t need to pick up much char because they are already suffused with the savor of smoke. There’s a steak special (smoked and seared large-format cuts) on Friday nights; 9-inch "dino" beef ribs are available on Saturdays and Sundays.

Tucker’s is Cantner’s first barbecue gig and he flexes his chef muscles with such accompaniments as braised collards with creamy-tart coleslaw and miso and gochujang (Korean smoked pepper paste). Excellent fries and onions rings are fried in tallow.

In addition to the brewery’s 90 indoor seats, there are two patios, three lawns and a stage for live music.

Tucker’s Taproom & Smokehouse, 9095 Sound Ave., Mattituck, 631-298-7077, tuckerstaproom.com