Explore Peekskill: Scenic drives, diverse downtown and history

Follow the scenic Palisades Interstate Parkway to the Hudson River city of Peekskill, where day-trippers can take a river walk or cruise, climb to the summit of "Anthony's Nose" or shop and dine in an ethnically diverse downtown. And while you're in town, you might as well follow the actual yellow brick road said to have inspired author L. Frank Baum's 1900 novel "The Wizard of Oz" and the classic 1939 movie.

In Peekskill, “there is still an existing old Dutch yellow brick road down by the [Hudson] river," and it is also true that L. Frank Baum attended two years down the road from it at Peekskill Military Academy,” said John Curran, president of the Peekskill Museum. During that boyhood stay, Baum often took that yellow brick road to a steamship dock and eventually included details of the city in his children's book. He returned in 1904 as a celebrated author, said Curran, whose museum celebrates 400 years of Peekskill history with artifacts and displays in seven exhibit rooms.

Nowadays, Peekskill is “a very small community where everybody knows each other,” said Bill Powers, executive director of the Peekskill Business Improvement District. Added Powers, “Our advantage is that we have a panoramic view of the Hudson.”

This fall, escape to a less crowded destination within an hour's drive from Long Island.

Getting there — on the scenic route

There are more direct ways to get to Peekskill, but they pale next to the scenic route that begins about an hour’s drive from Long Island when you cross the George Washington Bridge and veer north on the Palisades Interstate Parkway. The parkway, which eventually turns into a mountain road, offers stops for convenience store snacks and three increasingly dazzling Palisades Hudson River overlooks. Follow the road signs over the Bear Mountain Bridge to turn south on the 3-mile Bear Mountain Bridge Road. Known to locals as “the goat trail,” it winds around the rocky slopes of Anthony’s Nose mountain, overlooking Hudson views from the eastern side of the river. Take the Peekskill exit to the downtown business district.

There you’ll discover northwestern Westchester’s hidden gem — a walkable, multicultural downtown where many of the residents are bilingual in English and Spanish, and independent mom and pop shops sell clothing, art and other imported goods. The downtown scene reflects the diversity of a city of 26,000 where, according to census.gov, 46% of the population is Hispanic/Latino, and about 14% is African American.

“Peekskill’s always been diverse,” with many local businesses reflecting their owners’ Colombian, Peruvian and Ecuadoran heritage, said Carlos Chillogallo , of Patricio Records. Despite the name inherited from a previous owner, Patricio Records is a variety store selling practically everything but vinyl, its aisles packed with imported clothing, gifts, vintage DVDs and CDs.

At the nearby Peekskill Bazaar variety store, you can pick up three different-size statuettes of Our Lady of Guadalupe, the patron saint of Mexico. Or you can match up an outfit from the racks and a Western belt custom made with an ornate buckle imported from Mexico. “I can make them any color, any size,” leather craftsman Eduardo Vivanco said of the belts, which sell for $60 to $100.

If you’re planning a party, Corner Party shop sells piñatas based on characters from "Plim Plim," a popular Argentinian cartoon series.

Also downtown, The Fern Tree African gift shop stocks kinara candle holders, place mats and candles for Kwanzaa, shea butter and other skin care products imported from Ghana, men’s and women’s clothing, jewelry and incense oils. “You can smell the incense when you walk in the door, it’s absolutely wonderful,” said Lafern Joseph, who has owned and operated the shop for 32 years.

Restaurant Row and weekend markets

The Peekskill Farmers Market, held Saturdays through Nov. 21, draws nearly 30 vendors selling gluten-free bread and fermented treats such as pickles, sauerkraut and kimchi. The flea market, on Sundays through Nov. 22, features up to 30 vendors, including a local purveyor of 1980s and ‘90s clothing and memorabilia, Powers said.

If you’re looking for a sit-down meal, the choices on North Division Street’s restaurant row include tacos, South American-style steak, ramen, sushi and whiskey — the latter at Whiskey River NY restaurant and whiskey bar. Teetotalers can sip 45 flavors of their favorite non-alcoholic beverage at Kathleen’s English-style tearoom, a Black-owned business on Main Street. “On Fridays we switch from buttermilk scones and chicken salad to Soul food like smothered barbecued ribs and sweet potato pies, ” says Nicole Sutton, manager.

There are also smaller establishments that draw locals, such as Perla de Oriente Panaderia (Pearl of the Orient) a Guatemalan bakery and cafe.

“We’re the short cut to Guatemala,” owner Emiliano Perez said of a menu that includes choripán grilled chorizo sandwiches and bandeja paisa platters with fried pork, skirt steak, chorizo sausage, rice, beans and a slice of avocado. Choose your fresh-baked bread or pastry such as light-as-a-feather pastel-hued meringue cookies  from a wall-length glass display case.

Scenic river walks and cruises

If you enjoy exploring the great outdoors throughout the autumn and winter months, there are opportunities to soak up the autumn sunshine or frolic in the snow.

A stroll on Peekskill Riverwalk stretches your legs for more than 2 miles along the city’s Hudson River shorefront through Charles Point, Riverfront Green and Peekskill Landing parks, the latter two connected by a footbridge. The parks feature pavilions, sculpture walks and hike/bike trails.

Charles Point Park’s Fleischmann Pier reopened two years ago with a 500-foot dock where R.M.S. Cruises set sail through December aboard the 90-foot, two-deck yacht, Emerald Princess.

“I love the history of the Hudson River, and share it with our passengers,” said Capt. Frank Adam, whose brunch, sunset and foliage cruises pass by the West Point service academy and under the century old Bear Mountain Bridge. Special R.M.S. cruise events include a Nov. 26 Thanksgiving buffet dinner ($49.50-$99) and Polar Express River Cruises on Dec. 5 and 12 ($45-$55).

Take a drive — or a hike — on the wild side

Peekskill sits at the foot of the Hudson Highlands, a mountain range hugging both sides of the Hudson River where visitors can enjoy autumn and winter activities at three state parks.

Skate at the Bear Mountain State Park outdoor ice rink, buy souvenirs at a well-stocked gift shop or take a hike or drive to Perkins Memorial Tower for a 360-degree view of the river valley April through Nov. 30. At Harriman State Park, also located on the Hudson’s West Bank, cruise the aptly named Seven Lakes Drive and burn calories on 200 miles of hiking trails. Parking’s plentiful and the public restrooms are heated at nearby Silver Mine Lake, an off-the-beaten-track recreation area noted for its steep sledding hill. The parks stay open all winter for cross-country-skiing, snowmobiling, snowshoeing, “First Day” New Year’s hikes and, when conditions permit, ice fishing and skating on frozen lakes.

On the Peekskill side of the river, in Hudson Highlands State Park and Preserve, marked trails climb up Anthony’s Nose mountain. The shortest route to the summit is a 2.4-mile round trip, partially on stone steps and requiring a steep climb on a section of the Appalachian Trail.

“It’s a beautiful view,” said Marilyn MacGown, 70, of Hicksville, a paralegal, who hiked Anthony’s Nose in 2014.  “You can see the [Bear Mountain] bridge and up and down the Hudson from up there.”