Caviar on Long Island menus: When it's worth it — and when it's not

"Yes, you can add caviar to that." The Instagram post is simple and to the point, showing a plain bagel and cream cheese with a fat scoop of pearly black sturgeon eggs, glistening through the screen. The post took off, and soon enough, I was making a trip to East Quogue in the Hamptons for a $50 bagel. 

Goldberg's Bagels is the latest food business tapping into the caviar craze, which is being fueled by social media this go-round. Caviar itself is an ancient food, deriving from the Persian word khâvyâr, one translation meaning "egg-bearing.” It's not always been considered a luxury ingredient in American culinary culture. The roe was eaten by Indigenous Americans before the arrival of the colonists and for a period in Jamestown, considered a lower-class food.  

But in today's stratified capitalist landscape, the meticulously harvested and cured sturgeon eggs have become a symbol of wealth.

"The allure I think, is because it's supposed to be a high-end food," said manager Joe Mesquita at Prime in Huntington one afternoon, just after the upscale bistro had debuted a new happy hour with kaluga caviar mini lobster rolls. Mesquita was handing out freshly fried housemade potato chips to everyone at the bar, which were outstanding and paired beautifully with the Russian fish eggs. 

Then my Instagram feed began piling up with caviar, smeared on everything from vanilla ice cream to McDonald's chicken nuggets. Influencers like Danielle Zaslavskaya Matzon, @dzaslavsky, espoused proper serving techniques while experimenting with caviar on Krispy Kreme doughnuts. And then there were the advertisements from companies like Fishwife and Hey Caviar, which replaced the usual stately branding on the containers with whimsical millennial graphic design, and marketed with hashtags like #EatTheRiches. 

"I like that people are becoming more aware of it, and that people are experimenting it within reason. But what I don’t like is when people treat it as a condiment," says Ariana Aimani, of Paramount Caviar in Long Island City, which supplies many Long Island restaurants including the kitchen at Oheka Castle. 

Aimani's big no-no's include using hot sauces with caviar, because it obscures the flavor. And also, adding caviar to dishes as a substitute for salt. Aimani's family business sources caviars from all over the world, and she says different species of the sturgeon all have different flavor profiles, with tastes that can be nutty, briny, buttery or mineral-y. 

"In a great caviar, you should see the grains are intact. They should look round, almost fluffy. If you take a mother of pearl spoon and if you scoop it, there should be very little oil, it should be relatively dry," she said. "It should have a beautiful even color. It should never smell fishy, and it should never taste overtly fishy. When you taste it, you should be able to taste a discernible flavor."

But, you ask, is it worth it? I spent a week eating Long Island's most interesting caviar delights, and have ranked the experiences here, from least to most delicious. 

Caviar bagel at Goldberg's ($50)

Fish eggs belong on a bagel, but what kind? The iconic Russ & Daughters uses Japanese roe, and the East End mini chain Goldberg's upped the ante with Hey Caviar, which sources kaluga caviar from farms in the Western Pacific. But on my visit, an employee told me I was the first person to actually order it. She broke open the seal on the glass jar right in front of me, and scooped a spoonful of the caviar and then added a $45 upcharge. It was hard to tell the caviar bulbs from the black sesame seeds on the everything bagel. Overall, I preferred the saltier Japanese ikura version at Russ & Daughters, which holds up better to the strong seasonings. And unfortunately my doubts were confirmed when another Goldberg's employee told me they'd later taken the caviar bagel off the menu, due to lack of orders. 

Adult happy meal at Angie's ($34)

550 Plandome Rd., Manhasset

This lovely gastropub could do its happy meal without the caviar and it would be just fine. There's already a lot going on, between the cake pop and the hulking pickle that tastes of apple cider vinegar. Like caviar itself, this meal is more about the spectacle than taste. But that's OK, because everyone loves a happy meal and wouldn't we all love it more if it included a dirty martini. On the fries, there isn't much caviar, but based on this experience, I still don't truly understand why caviar is ever put on french fries, which are really a terrible vehicle for the delicate roe. More info: 516-627-7722, instagram.com/angieslongisland/?hl=en

Caviar martini at Arlo Kitchen & Bar ($35)

1036 Fort Salonga Rd., Northport

The Art Deco powerhouse Arlo and its sister concept The James both have caviar written all over them. Literally, the first thing on the menu is the caviar section, which includes a caviar lobster roll, caviar potato chips and this martini. The James also made a splash with its caviar bumps ($28), placed and eaten off the back of one's hand (mirroring illicit context). And indeed, this was a pleasure, sitting at the upstairs Arlo bar sipping a gorgeously presented vodka martini, with the kaluga caviar perched on a mother of pearl spoon. Here with the lack of adornment, you are really invited to savor the caviar itself. And I could actually taste the subtleties of the eggs, which had a savory fermented quality almost like blue cheese. Was that the natural flavor, or was it a touch over the edge? The jury is still out. More info: 631-491-2756, arlokitchenandbar.com

Caviar deviled eggs at Shands General ($48.41)

67 W. Main St., Patchogue

Now here we go. We've crossed the realm into splurge foods that are totally worth putting on your bucket list. Most of us still tend to think of deviled eggs as the coveted dish at the American potluck, what you gorge yourself on and then feel sick later. (Where's Andi? She's over by the deviled eggs.) But when deviled eggs are served at a bistro, they always taste French, in a good way. And these beauties at Shands General live up to their pedigree. The custardy mustardy part is lovingly glugged onto the whites in delicate rivulets. Oh, it is heaven. But then the caviar comes in, and shoots this thing into another galaxy. Look how much they put on there, for only a $36.05 upcharge. Manager Jamie Trowbridge said they also serve a caviar fried chicken dish at The State Room, which recently reopened upstairs. But I can't even imagine it's better than this. More info: 631-447-2337, shandsgeneral.com

Lobster and caviar rolls at Prime ($38)

117 North New York Ave., Huntington

I can't think of anything that says North Shore of Long Island better than a mini caviar lobster roll. But then you add the unbelievable view of the Huntington Harbor and its many boats, and you get into iconic status. These mini mayonnaise-y cold rolls have just the right balance between the bun and the filling. And then the caviar comes in and balances it out, adding some salt and some pep to an otherwise creamy center. It's just bonkers. The complimentary housemade potato chips also helped. Note: these lobster rolls ($38) are available at the bar and other select areas of the eatery during their new Golden Hour from 3 to 5 p.m. daily.   More info: 631-385-1515, huntington.restaurantprime.com