NYC's Don Pollo opens in Mineola

Peruvian food domination of Long Island marches on, with another South American chicken spot with Queens roots — like Urubamba in Huntington, one of Newsday's best new restaurants — opening in Nassau. Mineola recently welcomed Don Pollo, an Ozone Park original, to its dining scene.

This sliver of a spot, which has a robust takeout counter and six full-service tables, serves Peruvian classics to both transient visitors and dining room patrons. Colorful faux-floral walls are embedded with neon signage of their logo — a friendly, bow-tied, chicken.

Sunshine pours in through the windows; energetic Latin music comes through the speakers — maybe a touch too loud — giving the space a festive and warm feel. With so many Peruvian restaurants dotting the Island, the casual simplicity of Don Pollo feels more authentic than any of them.

All the classics are represented here, from ceviche appetizers ($30) to caldo de gallina ($18), Peru’s answer to chicken soup. Tallerin verde ($29), or pesto-covered pasta, can be ordered with a side of simply grilled chicken or steak, while heartier dishes might include the lomo saltado ($27), or beef sauteed with tomatoes and onions over rice and french fries, a traditional dish. Chaufa ($24), or Peruvian fried rice, can be made with beef, chicken or shrimp, while the restaurant’s namesake, pollo, or chicken, is cooked low and slow, and winds up moist and juicy. Chicken combos, served with rice and beans or fries and a salad, begin at $17 for a quarter chicken. Plates are generous, portions oversized.

The original owners of the Ozone Park spot from which Don Pollo grew are Nancy Salazar and Rafael Baldoceda, who emigrated from Lima and dreamed of owning their own restaurant. Their son, Brian Baldoceda, is the owner of the new Mineola restaurant. A newcomer to the family business, he said, "My mother has been instrumental in helping me establish the restaurant and continues to serve as both a guide and mentor as I learn the business."

Don Pollo's other eateries, in addition to Ozone Park, can be found in Woodhaven, Astoria, Ridgewood and Forest Hills.

Don Pollo, 124 Old Country Rd., Mineola, 516-266-3036; donpolloperu.com; Open Monday to Thursday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Friday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

By Marie Elena Martinez

marieelena.martinez@newsday.com@mariesworlds

A global freelancer who has checked her suitcase to raise her young daughter on her native Long Island, Marie Elena will always make time for good mezcal, even better tacos and killer conversation. Preferably, in a corner bar seat. She can be found on Instagram at @mariesworldeats.