Lily's Seaside food truck debuts in East Moriches

With two restaurants, two delis and a pizzeria, East Moriches could not be less of a dining destination. But, during summer weekends, it boasts one of Long Island’s most idyllic eateries: Lily’s Seaside serves food and drinks at Silly Lily, the historic fishing station on the banks of Tuthill Cove which, in turn, opens out into Moriches Bay.

You might consider "eatery" too ambitious a term for what is, essentially, a truck. But the truck is run by Will Pendergast, chef-owner of Little Gull in Speonk (a Newsday Top 50 restaurant) as well as a much-anticipated new seafood restaurant taking shape in Westhampton Beach. So even the snack bar fare is prepared with skill using excellent ingredients.

The menu features crab cocktail (jumbo lump with avocado, cherry tomatoes and ginger vinaigrette), market salad of local greens, lobster roll, BLT (on Little Gull’s thick-cut, homemade bread), smashburgers (also on homemade buns) and hot dogs with various toppings. Most items are less than $20. There’s also a small but mighty selection of wines, beers and cocktails.

Tables are arrayed along the shore — and there’s even a beached boat or two to sit in. Silly Lily, est. 1932, is one of the Island’s last surviving fishing stations, where you can rent a dory, sailboat, kayak or paddleboard, or be outfitted for a day of fishing, crabbing or clamming.

Lily’s Seaside, 99 Adelaide Ave., East Moriches, 631-560-1122, lilysseaside.com