Symi in Northport transforms into Symi Taverna

Did you know that Kyma, one of Newsday's Top 50 Restaurants in Roslyn, has a little sister in Northport? Opened two years ago, this Greek spot called Symi mimicked much of what Kyma did beautifully, from the generous portions of grilled Greek fish to the D.J.-fueled dance sets that went late into the evening. As of this week, Symi has gotten a makeover and reintroduced itself as Symi Taverna.

"After two years, we came to understand that Northport is truly a family community," owner Irena Angeliades said. Embracing that familial spirit, she wanted to create a warmer environment for her diners. The changes are subtle, including new signage and vibrant pink, bougainvillea flowers painted and planted outside the formerly sterile, white building. Inside, the decor is the same cheery yellow and white that welcomed Symi’s guests; but now the walls are adorned with Angeliades’ family photos from her native Greece, as well as the isle of Symi, from which the Angeliades family hails and the restaurant takes its name. Luckily for those who prefer less rhythm and bass at mealtime, the DJ sets and loud music are gone.

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Angeliades still maintains ownership, and Symi Taverna’s chef is now Julio Gutierrez, part of the opening team at Kyma Roslyn, where he worked as chef Chris Kletsidis’ sous. When Kletsidis retired last year, Gutierrez took the reins at Symi. "The food, quality, portions, and hospitality everyone knows will remain the same," Angeliades said.

The menu, very similar to the original, will still feature the soft, succulent grilled octopus ($29) and zucchini and eggplant chips served with tzatziki ($26, up from $24), two menu mainstays. The gigante beans ($14), sweet sesame feta ($20) and keftedes ($20), or Greek meatballs, as well as horiatiki salad ($18 for an individual portion, $28 for family-style) made with ripe tomatoes, fresh vegetables, and feta imported from Greece will return. Greek spreads like hummus, tzatziki and tirokafteri (spicy whipped feta) are $9 each; a trio of spreads costs $22. Entrees include moussaka ($34), grilled lamb chops ($48), fresh, whole fish flown in from Greece like fagri (MP) and tsipoura, or Greek sea bream ($38) and the popular pork chop ($39).

Symi Taverna has also enhanced its fixed-menu offerings. The $28 three-course prix-fixe lunch menu is a terrific value; additionally, $15 entree specials — a choice of 15 homey dishes, including gemista, Greek peppers filled with ground beef, rice and herbs, plus chicken, pork and shrimp souvlaki, shrimp saganaki, a fish of the day, even a lobster roll — deepen the lunch value offerings. Added is a $39, three-course prix-fixe dinner menu which includes favorites like the octopus, spanakopita, lamb chops, and lavraki, or branzino.

Looking forward, Angeliades plans to transform the front room into a bakery serving fresh coffee and homemade Greek desserts.

Symi Taverna, 843 Fort Salonga Rd., Northport, 631-380-3252, symitaverna.com. Open Tuesday to Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.